Alternative route for Mansarovar Yatra via Nathula pass: who wins, India or China ?

China allows Kailash Mansarovar Yatra via Nathula pass in Sikkim believed to be at the behest of Prime Minister Narendra Modi. A MoU to this effect was signed between India and China on 18 Sept, 2014 permitting the opening of the new route for Indian pilgrims. Addressing the media after the signing of the MoU, PM Modi said the new route offers many benefits. “It makes Kailash Mansarovar accessible by a motorable road, which is especially beneficial for older pilgrims. It offers a safer alternative in the rainy season makes the pilgrimage shorter in duration and will enable a much higher number of pilgrims to go there.” But this ‘gesture of friendship’ from Beijing was obviously driven by self-interest! Whenever natural disasters have struck along the traditional route for the pilgrimage passing through Utrakhand, the issue of an alternative route for Mansarovar Yatra has come up to the fore.

Uttarakhand Chief Minister Harish Rawat is not happy with Modi approaching China for an alternative route. He opposed the route via Nathula pass saying the agreement “goes against the religious sentiments as it is not in keeping with the centuries-old scriptures which recognise only the traditional route for the pilgrimage passing through Uttarakhand." However, the major reason of opposition is that the state is likely to lose over Rs 3 crore annually.Competition between states is likely to result in  better services to the yatris. 

Leh Demchok is another alternative route to Kailash-Mansarovar. The ‘Panchsheel Agreement’ of 1954 between India and China was supposed to be the bedrock of an ‘eternal’ friendship for peaceful co-existence. The Agreement lapsed in April 1962 and 6 months later China attacked India and fought a bitter war. The Agreement had further specified some points of entry into Tibet for trade and pilgrims of both countries: Shipki-la , Mana pass, Niti pass, Kungri Bingri pass, Darma pass and Lipulekh pass. Apart from the first which is in Himachal Pradesh, all are located in present-day Uttarakhand. Article IV mentions: “Also, the customary Ladakh road via Demchok to Tashigong along the valley of the Indus River may continue to be traversed in accordance with custom.”  It is however rather strange that China refuses to reopen the Demchok route to Kailash-Mansarovar on one hand and on the other side has a grand plan to create a modern ‘One Belt One Road’ by reviving the ancient ‘Silk Road’ and new  ‘Maritime Silk Road’.   

President Xi’s proposal of ‘one belt and one road’ New Silk Road brought a new connotation to the old Silk Road. The 6,437 km route got its name from the business in Chinese silk as early as the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD). The New Silk Road is so dear to President Xi that The People’s Daily, the mouthpiece of the Communist Party of China recently celebrated the ‘renaissance’ of the route by holding grand functions in Beijing, Xi’an, and Quanzhou.  

The potential of Demchok-Ladakh route should not be lost in bureaucratic illusion. It is understood as an alternative route for Kailash-Mansarovar and has been a part of Agenda for some time during bilateral border talks. Domestic Buddhist Tourism should be linked to this Yatra to further encourage religious tourism so that Ladakh earns additional revenue. 

The customary Ladakh road via Demchok is the easiest and the most convenient route from Leh. This route follows the footsteps of General Zorawar Singh (the famous Dogra General) who captured areas up to Mansarovar. This route is shorter, will be more convenient and provide a near disaster-free Yatra, especially for senior citizens and connect us to a rich history of our troops reaching Mansarovar. This route through Ladakh and Western Tibet is least strenuous and economical too. The entire pilgrimage and logistics are based on motorable roads as it does not encounter any major passes enroute either. 

Other interesting options along the Ladakh routes for Kailash Mansarovar Yatra are:

• After acclimatization at Leh, the yatris could travel in vehicles through Chang la at 17350 feet to Tangtse village, thenalong Pangong Tso- Chushul border village of Demchok. Onward journey would be on Western Highway in Tibet to Gartok -Mansarovar. The entire route, except in the region of Changla pass, is plain high altitude desert.  In less than six days from Leh, pilgrims would reach their destination.
• Leh-Changla-Tangtse-Pangong Tso (through the water body in boats into Western Highway in Tibet Gartok –Mansarovar)
• Leh – Karu-Kyari – Dungti – Demchok -Western Highway in Tibet to Gartok –Mansarovar (for those wanting to avoid Chang la )
• Manali - Leh Highway is one of those highways which offers an adventurer-lover a dream journey replete with breath-taking natural beauty.
  • Manali - Leh (follow any of the above Leh - Mansarovar routes)
  • Manali - Dungti – Demchok -Western Highway in Tibet to Gartok –Mansarovar (for those wanting to bypass Leh)

During the PM’s recent visit to J&K, the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council (LAHDC) presented a memorandum requesting the reopening of the Demchok road to Kailash-Mansarovar. It is clearly in India's interest to open up Demchok route to Kailash-Mansarovar and demand quid pro quo of the Chinese for opening Kailash Mansarovar route via Nathula. 

Col RC Patial, SM, FRGS, PhD (Retd) has served with the National Security Council Secretariat (NSCS) as a Senior Defence Specialist.  Views expressed are personal.